How to verify a Japanese auction sheet by chassis number

You don't need to trust a dealer's PDF or WhatsApp screenshot. With the car's chassis number you can pull the original Japanese auction sheet and confirm the real grade, mileage and damage map yourself.

What you need: the full chassis (frame) number — e.g. ZRE142-1234567 or GK3-1001234. If you only have a short model code, get the serial from the export certificate or door-jamb plate. Guide: where to find the chassis number.

Why verification beats a screenshot

Auction sheets travel as images. Grades and odometer readings are easy to edit. Dealers may also show a sheet from a different car of the same model. The only conclusive check is matching the chassis number to the auction's own record — the same source Japan used when the car was graded.

Step 1 — Get the full chassis number

  • Ask the seller for the export / deregistration certificate (easiest).
  • Or read it from the firewall under the bonnet or the driver's door-jamb plate.
  • Enter the full string including the dash and serial — not just the chassis code.

Step 2 — Look up the original sheet

Enter the chassis number in the SheetJP verify form. We search Japan's auction records and, when a sheet exists, show you the original grade, mileage and damage map. One flat fee per report — and if no sheet is found, you aren't charged.

Step 3 — Compare what you were shown

  1. Overall grade — does the seller's sheet match (especially R / RA)?
  2. Mileage — is the auction reading higher than what the odometer shows now?
  3. Damage map — are repair marks, XX panels or clusters missing from the dealer's copy?
  4. Chassis number — does it match the car in front of you?
Any mismatch on grade or mileage is a walk-away signal. Learn the fields first in how to read a Japanese auction sheet.

What if no sheet is found?

Not every Japanese car went through a major auction, and some older records are incomplete. A missing sheet is not proof of fraud — but it does mean you're buying with less information. Treat “no sheet” from a dealer who refuses verification as a red flag; treat a genuine database miss as a reason to demand a deeper mechanical inspection and a better price.

What you'll see on a verified report

  • Overall auction grade (S, 6–1, R, RA)
  • Interior / exterior letter grades where recorded
  • Odometer reading at inspection
  • Damage-map symbols and replaced panels
  • Model, year and other auction header details when available

See annotated real examples on our sample auction sheet page — then verify your own chassis.

Verify your chassis number now

Original, unaltered auction record for $10 — delivered on-screen and by email. No sheet found = no charge.

Verify auction sheet

Frequently asked questions

How do I verify a Japanese auction sheet?
Use the car's full chassis number to look up the original auction record. Compare the returned grade, mileage and damage map with any sheet the seller provided.
Can I verify an auction sheet without the dealer?
Yes. You only need the chassis number — you do not need the dealer to supply the sheet.
How long does auction sheet verification take?
Usually minutes. You get the report on-screen after payment, plus a permanent link by email.
What if verification finds no auction sheet?
You aren't charged. Some cars never went through a covered auction or lack a retrievable record — use that as a cue for deeper inspection and harder negotiation.

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