What does R and RA grade mean?
Seeing an R or RA on a Japanese auction sheet stops most buyers cold — and it should make you pause. These codes flag repair or accident history. Here's exactly what each means, how they differ, and how to decide whether the car is still a smart buy.
R grade — structural repair history
R (sometimes written as 0, ★, or 事故 depending on the auction house) marks a vehicle that has had repair work to a structural part of the body — pillars, frame rails, roof, floor, or other crash structure. Fresh paint and new outer panels can hide that history completely. The R grade is often the only honest record that the car was repaired after an impact.
An R grade does not always mean the car is unsafe today. Many R cars were properly repaired in Japan to a high standard. It does mean you should assume crash history, inspect the damage map carefully, and negotiate a discount versus a clean Grade 4 of the same model.
RA grade — lighter repaired accident
RA typically indicates a lighter accident that has been fully and properly repaired. Think repaired door skin with no frame damage, or a front-end hit that didn't compromise the structure. Auction practice varies slightly by house, but RA is generally treated as less severe than a full R.
| Code | Usually means | Buyer takeaway |
|---|---|---|
| R | Structural / serious repair history | Only buy if discounted and documented |
| RA | Lighter accident, fully repaired | Often acceptable if price reflects history |
| 4 / 4.5 / 5 | No accident grade — normal used condition | Baseline for most importers |
| XX on a panel | Panel replaced (not an R by itself) | Common on bolt-on parts — check overall grade |
R vs XX — don't confuse them
An XX on the damage map means a panel was replaced. On a door, bumper or fender that is routine and does not equal an R grade. Structural accident repair is shown in the overall grade as R or RA. Buyers who panic at every XX often miss good cars — and buyers who ignore an R often overpay. Full symbol list: auction sheet symbols.
How to evaluate an R or RA car
- Read the whole damage map. Look for clusters of W (repair-wave), X/XX, and marks near pillars or the roof — not just one isolated panel.
- Compare price to a clean Grade 4. If the discount doesn't clearly cover repair risk and future resale hit, walk away.
- Check mileage and interior grade. An RA with high km and a tired cabin is a different proposition from a low-km RA with a clean map.
- Verify the sheet is genuine. Accident grades are exactly what faked sheets try to hide. Verify by chassis number before you pay.
Why sellers hide R and RA grades
Abroad, many buyers will not touch an R-grade car at full price. That creates a strong incentive for dishonest sellers to edit the grade, crop the sheet, or claim it was “lost.” If a dealer shows you a Grade 4 image but won't let you verify the chassis, treat that as a warning — not a paperwork inconvenience.
Is your car really R, RA, or clean?
Enter the chassis number and see the original overall grade and damage map from the auction record.
Verify auction sheetFrequently asked questions
What does R mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
What does RA grade mean?
Is RA better than R?
Can an R grade be faked or removed from a sheet?
Related reading
Japanese auction grades explained
What every Japanese auction grade means — from S and 6 down to 3, plus the R and RA accident codes and the A–E interior/exterior letter grades. Know exactly what you're buying.
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