What is a chassis number and where to find it
To verify an auction sheet you need one thing: the chassis number. Here's what it is, how to read it, where to find it, and the mistakes that make lookups fail.
What a chassis number looks like
A Japanese chassis number is a chassis code (model and generation) plus a serial for that individual car, usually separated by a dash. Example: ZRE142-1234567. The first part tells you what the car is; the serial pins down which exact vehicle went through auction.
| Part | Example | What it identifies |
|---|---|---|
| Chassis code | ZRE142 | Model / generation (e.g. Corolla) |
| Serial | 1234567 | That specific car |
| Full number | ZRE142-1234567 | What you enter to pull the sheet |
It is not the same as a 17-character VIN used on many markets. Japanese domestic-market (JDM) cars use this frame-number format. Some export markets restamp or add VIN-style plates later — for auction lookup, you want the Japanese frame number from the export paperwork.
The five places to find it
- Export / deregistration certificate — printed near the top. Most reliable source when buying an import.
- Under the bonnet — stamped on the firewall, strut tower or a chassis plate (varies by maker).
- Door jamb plate — manufacturer's plate on the driver's door frame.
- Auction sheet — if you already have a copy (still verify it's genuine).
- Dashboard / windscreen base — visible from outside on some models.
Chassis codes vary by brand
Each manufacturer uses its own convention. Browse model codes on our verify-by-brand pages:
- Toyota — e.g. ZRE142 (Corolla), ZVW30 (Prius), GGH30 (Vellfire)
- Honda — e.g. GK3 (Fit), RU1 (Vezel), JF3 (N-Box)
- Nissan — e.g. E12 (Note), V37 (Skyline)
- All brands — Suzuki, Mazda, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Daihatsu, Lexus
Common mistakes that break a lookup
- Model code only — entering ZRE142 without the serial won't identify one car.
- Wrong character — O vs 0, I vs 1, and similar lookalikes. Copy from the certificate when possible.
- Spaces or missing dash — use the format on the export papers.
- VIN from a re-plated car — ask for the Japanese frame number if the yard only quotes a local VIN.
- Partial plate photo — get a clear shot of the full stamped number before you pay a finder.
Why the chassis number unlocks the sheet
Japanese auctions index the condition report against the frame number. That is how you can verify the original sheet even when a dealer says it was lost — see why “no auction sheet” is a red flag. Once you have the number, you can check grade, mileage and the damage map before money changes hands. First-registration and shaken next to the chassis use era dates — convert them with the Japanese date converter (calendar math only).
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Verify auction sheetFrequently asked questions
Is a chassis number the same as a VIN?
Where is the chassis number on a Japanese import?
Do I need the dash and full serial?
What if the dealer only gives a partial number?
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