Damage code decoder
Paste marks from the body diagram (A1, W2, XX…) and get plain-English meanings. Then verify the original sheet — don’t trust a seller’s cropped PDF.
Full symbol reference
| Code | Meaning | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| A + 1–4 | Scratch | Surface scratch. Number 1–4 sets size (1 small → 4 severe). |
| U + 1–4 | Dent | Panel dent without necessarily breaking paint. Severity 1–4. |
| B | Dent with scratch | Combined impact mark — dent plus scratch. |
| E + 1–4 | Dimples / hail | Multiple small dents (often hail). Count/severity via number. |
| W + 1–4 | Repair wave / mark | Evidence of previous bodywork. W1 barely visible; W3 clearly visible. |
| S + 1–4 | Rust | Surface rust. Check location (arches, sills, underbody). |
| C + 1–4 | Corrosion | More serious than light rust — dig deeper on trucks/SUVs. |
| P | Paint / touch-up | Paint mark or touch-up. Common on older cars. |
| X | Needs replace | Panel should be replaced (not yet done at inspection). |
| XX | Already replaced | Panel already replaced. Routine on bolt-ons; dig in if clustered with W/R. |
| G | Glass | Chip or crack in glass (windscreen, lights, etc.). |
| Y | Crack | Crack — often plastic/bumper related. |
How damage codes work on Japanese auction sheets
Inspectors mark panels on a top-down body diagram. A letter (like A for scratch or W for repair) plus a severity number tells you what they saw — not a full repair invoice. Pair this decoder with the auction grade explainer: a clean-looking Grade 4 can still hide serious marks on the map.
Also confirm which auction house inspected the car (USS, TAA, JU, HAA…) and that the lot/date match the seller’s story. Full guide: auction sheet symbols explained.
Buying checklist
- Decode every mark on the diagram — don’t stop at the headline grade.
- Cross-check mileage with the mileage sanity check.
- Verify the original sheet so you aren’t reading a cropped PDF.
Frequently asked questions
What do auction sheet damage codes mean?
Letters describe the type of mark (scratch, dent, repair wave, replaced panel, etc.) and numbers usually show severity. Together they map where inspectors found issues on the car.
Is A1 worse than W2?
Different letters mean different kinds of damage, so you can’t rank solely by the number. Always read codes with the overall auction grade and a verified original sheet.
Can a seller’s PDF hide damage codes?
Yes — cropped or edited sheets are a common scam. Decode what you see here, then verify the original Japanese auction sheet by chassis number.
Next: verify the original auction sheet
Tools identify models and risks. The paid check pulls Japan’s real grade, mileage and damage map.
Verify auction sheet